Far away from the smog and crowds of China’s east coast cities is Yunnan Province. Though it has a few cities of its own, the southwestern province is geographically diverse, with the Tibetan plateau rising in the north and west, and subtropical lowlands steaming to the south.
Edging towards the northwest of the province is Three Parallel Rivers National Park. Here, southern Asia, eastern Asia and the Tibetan Plateau smash together in a dramatic riot of deep, near-sunless gorges, mighty rivers and craggy snow-capped peaks. The spectacular terrain has historically meant tough travel, and the subsequent isolation experienced by its inhabitants has preserved its cultural diversity. The park is home to the Naxi people, as well as the Li, Nisu and a handful of others.
The park encompasses the near-meeting points of three of Asia’s – and the world’s — great rivers: the Jinsha, Lancang and Nu, which eventually become the Yangtze, Mekong and Salween respectively. Although the mouths and headwaters of these rivers are all quite distant, for a brief period they gravitate towards each other and then run parallel for roughly 100 miles before diverging into different seas. Their relatively short run alongside each other happens to be in one of the most biologically diverse and geographically varied temperate zones in the world, which earned it a Unesco World Heritage Site status in 2003.
Trekking
The most well-known area of the park is Tiger Leaping Gorge, arguably the deepest gorge in the world and the site of one of China’s most popular treks. The trail snakes along vertical cliffs and through small villages, while the Jinsha rushes far below. Visitors usually take two days to hike the upper path, stopping to sleep in one of the villages along the way and using Lijiang or Shangri-la as a base.
When trekking through this region, you often feel as though time is standing still. A group of small goats clang by, herded by a man carrying a walking stick. Women carry woven baskets on their backs, peddling food to travellers or carrying goods home. As the sun rises, the light filters through the jagged teeth of the mountaintops, while pure streams rush down from glaciers.
It is easy to organize your own trek through Tiger Leaping Gorge, as it is a well-travelled trail. Tour operators in Lijiang and Shangri-la can help organise more remote treks. Consider WildChina for upscale, customized trips or Yunnan Adventure for a more basic approach.
Travel Tips
To visit Three Parallel Rivers National Park, start in Kunming, Yunnan’s capital city. From there you can fly, take a train or bus to Lijiang, another UNESCO protected site. Buses and planes also run to Shangri-la, further west. From these two cities, buses and minivans depart regularly for Qiaotou, at one end of Tiger Leaping Gorge.
Unlike the Chinese gardens in Suzhou which are appreciated for their architecture, Shenyuan Garden in Shaoxing, a water town in Zhejiang province is sought by tourists who want to bask in the aura of an 800-year-old love story.
Lu You was the famous Song Dynasty poet. He was separated from and forced to divorce his wife Tang Wan by his mother. Shenyuan Garden is the special spot where the two star-crossed lovers reencountered each other.
Although they had both remarried, their love for each other was never extinguished. So close and yet so far apart from the love of his life, a heartbroken Lu You unleashed his anguish and sorrow into a poem which he carved onto a stone wall in Shenyuan Garden.
When Tang Wang saw her ex-husband’s poem, Tang Wan was overcome by despair and fell ill. Shortly before her death, she wrote a poem echoing Lu You’s.
In his mourning, Lu You revisited the Shenyuan Garden several times and his stay in Shenyuan yielded a number of poems which have been memorized by generations of people.
Shenyuan Garden was built by the rich Shen family in the Song Dynasty. It was restored in the 1980s. Besides the delicate southern style pavilions, fish ponds and rockery, the garden also has a small museum about the life and works of Lu You.
Travel Tips:
Shenyuan Garden is located within ten minutes’ walk to the former residence of Lu Xun, one of the major Chinese writers of the 20th century.
The best time to visit Shenyuan Garden is in spring when the plum trees are in full blossom. Ticket price for the garden is 40 yuan per person.
“Get a bicycle. You will not regret it if you live.” That’s a quote by famous American writer Mark Twain, which aptly applies to Beijing, where most of its roads have designated cycling paths. The traffic lights in the city even have bikers in mind!
Apart from cycling to tourist destinations such as the Great Wall and Tiananmen Square, also go on the unbeaten paths to explore the hutongs (old alleys).
When tired, cyclists can easily find a place to park their wheels particularly outside subway stations.
Then, find a place for a cuppa or tease your taste buds at shops or restaurants, which are easily available throughout the city.
During summer, cyclists could consider riding in the evenings when the sun has set and traffic slows down. Evenings are the best time to explore Beijing’s Olympic Forest Park, to be one with nature.
For first-time riders, the Olympic Forest Park provides good training as it is less physically challenging than other long-distance routes.
A good place to stop for a panoramic view is at the crossing of Kehui Nanlu and Hujing Donglu, where one could soak in the iconic architectural achievements in the Olympic Park area such as the National Aquatics Center, also known as Water Cube, and the National Stadium or Bird’s Nest, which sparkles in the dark.
Cycling should be encouraged to reduce traffic congestions and air pollution in the city.
Travel tips:
Recommended cycling route: Aolin Xilu – Aolin Bridge – Aolin Donglu – Beichen Donglu – Kehui Nanlu – Beichen Xilu – Aolin Xilu
Estimated duration: For cycling rookies and those who are not familiar with the route, the gentle 8.2 km journey will cost them 15 minutes.
Best time to cycle: Summer as most places are shaded and cycling can actually ward off summer heat.
Bicycle rental: Bicycle rentals are available near subway exits at the city’s CBD area in Chaoyang district.
You will be able to use the bikes for free for half an hour after paying a 300-yuan ($48) refundable deposit. Pay 0.5 yuan if you need the bike for between 30 minutes and an hour, and one yuan per hour to use the bikes from one to 48 hours.
Reminder: Ride slower when approaching the slopes upon reaching Aolin West Bridge and at the turn to Aolin Donglu. Do bring a flashlight if riding at night along Aolin Donglu as there is no street light.