Several superb natural and cultural sights are outside "old" Dali's walled city gates. Be adventurous and be ready to move distances. A 10-minute bicycle ride from Dali takes you to the shores of the breathtaking Erhai Lake. On its eastern banks is Wase Village where souvenir hunters thrive every five days. You can ride around the lake and meander through Xizhou, Zhoucheng and Shaping villages. The isle in the center is rocky Putuo Island, which retains a Buddhist population and the several ruins, including the Lesser Putuo Temple. For a short island trip, hop onto a boat from Caicun dock some 5kmeast of Dali and watch trained cormorants with nooses around their necks pick the day's catch.
Board a passenger ferry at 9am from Xiaguan Erhai Lake Docks. Skim along the eastern side of Erhai Lake and catch a glimpse of Golden Spindle Island, Putuo Island, Guanyin Ge and Nanzhao Fengqing Island. The ferry finally rests on the west bank of Erhai Lake near Butterfly Springs, where thousands of butterflies congregate in springtime. From here, hop onto a bus to tour Butterfly Springs, the old city of Dali and the Temple of the Three Pagodas, then head back to Xiaguan at 4:30pm. Several travel agencies in Xiaguan offer this tour, which costs around RMB 180. The price includes boat fare, admission, bus fare, lunch, a Bai "three courses of tea" on the boat and a Chinese speaking guide. A half-day tour, which doesn't include lunch, is also available. This tour stops at the west bank and costs about RMB 90.
For an aerial view of the lake, head to the top of Zhonghe Temple. The 20-minute cable car ride to the temple gates is RMB 35 and the cobalt Erhai Lake sprawls below. As your cable car skims the canopies of pine forests, you'll pass over old cemeteries.
An obvious landmark is the Temple of the Three Pagodas, situated northwest of Dali. The original structures were built in the 9th century but destroyed by a fire in the 19th century. While being rebuilt in 1978, 600 relics dating from the Nanzhao period were discovered in the pagodas, adding to their prestige. The tallest, called Pagoda of the Thousand Searches stands 70m high and is comprised of 16 levels, and flanked by two ten-storey octagonal pagodas flank it. These structures not only store the ashes and bones of saints, scriptures and precious objects, they also invoked Buddha's protection against natural disasters. The marble stele in front of Pagoda of the Thousand Searches bears the characters "Yong Zhen Shan Chuan” which means, "Forever subdue the mountains and rivers." Just behind them is the Temple of the Exalted One, which is a museum detailing the history and construction of the pagodas.
Follow the trail near the pagodas if you want to do some hiking. At the end of the 10-km trail through pine forests are several natural pools and a waterfall waiting to soothe tired feet. If that hike gets your adrenaline pumping, and you're looking out for more adventure, trek around stunning Cang Shan's 19 peaks, soaring 4,000m high. Your meanderings may take you to the forgotten Yita Temple. Within the temple walls is a mysterious 10th century pagoda completely sealed in the quiet landscape.
Two major remnants of ancient Dali are its North Gate and South Gate, their Qing-styled towers rise above the gateway in vibrant hues. Leading from the North Gate is the main thoroughfare, Fuxing Lu, along which lies the Tower of the Five Glories. This central bell tower was once the south gate of the original town. Huguo Lu, known to locals as Foreigner's Street, is another Dali attraction. This stretch pulses with souvenir shops, guesthouses, internet and food cafés– this backpackers' haven has spilled into neighboring streets like Bo'ai Lu and Fuxing Lu. |